Out Of Africa

A few weeks before pushing off for Safari I (re)watched the Karen Blixen story Out of Africa (based on her love affair with the land). I’m sure the book would have given me more depth into ‘life in the bush’ (to be with the animals) but I’m a super slow reader and >>> Meryl Streep and Robert Redford! ❤️

It whet my appetite for the coming weeks and had me purchasing linen garments (a la Meryl) but they turned out to be what I call ‘fantasy items’ — I loved the idea but gauzy frocks were totally impractical for the purposes of a modern safari. 😳

It took 24 hours to get to Nairobi. There we visited the home where Out of Africa was filmed, adopted an orphaned baby elephant, fed giraffes. And then we (Adam, myself and our friends Perl and Meghan) flew to the Lewa Conservancy in Kenya on an 8-seater ‘Safarilink’ plane. (Pass the Ativan.) On decent we were thrilled at a zebra spotting down below — like kids approaching a candy store — naive to the fact that zebras were about to be EVERYWHERE.

“Onesmus” met us at the airport (a dirt road, a shaded shed and an outhouse). He was a stranger who would quickly become our personal safari whisperer - our Spirit Guide. Our friend. On the way to “camp” he jumped from the Jeep and traced a footprint … told us how he knew it was from a rhino and that it wasn’t far away.

I’m not gonna lie. Our ‘tent’ had some modern conveniences. But that didn’t change the 5:30am wake up calls. (Although it did mean coffee delivered to us every morning and oversized hot water bottles slipped under the comforter at night to warm us into slumber — a curious but delicious local custom.)

In case you didn’t know (I didn’t, but now I do) the typical goal on safari is to site “The Big Five” (a lion, leopard, buffalo, rhino, elephant). Many people return home disappointed. But on our very first “game drive” Onesmus found us that lion. Out in the open. Up close. Devouring his “kill.” Yikes!

I had anticipated needing binoculars to see anything — that all wildlife would be hundreds of feet away. Not true. In which case, how safe was it for us ‘two-leggeds’? Our friend assured us that animals are used to the presence of jeeps and they see them as just another (unthreatening) species. “JUST DON’T GET OUT of the VEHICLE” or wave your arms around as this will change a lion’s perception of a threat. Um, Duly noted!

And … “Don’t drop your phone,” he advised as another lion(ess) scanned the side of the car, eye on her prey. What I thought he meant was ‘you’ll miss the moment’ but later he clarified: the thud of a device hitting the floor could startle her into aggressive behavior. Jesus.

A little too close for comfort!

You’d think the spotting of lions so soon in the adventure would make us eager to see another creature on the list of Five. Wisely, Onesmus suggested no one should be looking for “more” or “better” but rather be open to “whatever” — to “different.” (Same with chasing a song, right? Or finding love!) The same species under a different sky, in different light is always new.

He was less of a stranger every day — a dedicated passionate docent sharing the ways of the wild: the elephant’s friendly, often playful nature (is opposite that of a buffalo’s). The way he/she/they never forgets. How she nurtures her young. What it means when she trumpets at your Jeep: kindly BACK OFF. 😳.

Sorry little guy. Didn’t mean to intrude!

He schooled us in the sad details in the history and trauma of savage elephant poaching — these soulful gentle giants slaughtered for their ivory. Tragic.

Around every curve was another surprise. Wildlife was abundant — always looking over their shoulder (or rump) for an attacker. Except for the lion and the leopard an animals’ mission is to eat … AND to get through the day without being eaten. Sheesh. What a life! And no sooner than they escape being brutally killed, they’re right back to chomping on leaves. Like nothing ever happened. 😯 Like it’s just another day in the circle of life. Because it IS!

Zebras were everywhere — with a friend group or sticking with their harem. A lone male means he’s ‘protecting his territory’ and in that solitude he leaves himself exceptionally vulnerable to a predator. He may even know this. He doesn’t care. His territory is everything. Silly zebra!

More fun facts: The thickness and length of the black stripe in a zebra’s butt crack determines their gender. It’s a “dazzle” of zebras, a “herd” of elephants, a “tower” or a “journey” of giraffes depending on whether they’re standing still or walking in line.

We got lucky. We surely had the best guide in the camp. Nobody could compare. I hugged Onesmus and felt a little teary when we said goodbye. We exchanged What’s Apps but I’m sure everyone does. Do they really stay in touch? As soon as we parted he walked over to greet his next group who just arrived.

This reminded me of the time we said goodbye to Reina, my daughter’s nanny. How hard it was for us. How hard it was for Layla. How hard it must have been for Reina. And then she moved on to a new child. Just like that. I know I’m being ridiculous. Reina was with us for 7 years and Onesmus for 3 days. But there IS this connection. Reciprocally, I’d like to think we were a special foursome to him. But…

And we were off on another teeny plane (more Ativan.) (JUST KIDDING!) to Maasai Mara where another “stranger” who would also become a knowledge-filled wise and whispering teacher welcomed us. “Simon” compared. For sure.

He took us to The Karen Blixen Camp where for the next few days we would dine al fresco at the foot of a watering hole and watch hippos bathe and snort; giraffes, elephants, impalas and baboons take turns coming down to drink. Honestly it was like an IMAX screening of The Lion King 24/7 right in front of our eyes. Here’s my favorite pic from the trip. Tell me it doesn’t look like a painting.

On game drives Simon could sense (smell) where the action was: 2 animals sparring, hunting, nursing, grooming, chilling and umm … mating. Case in point >>>

(It actually takes a male rhino a while because of the getting up and getting down. The deed itself is over quickly.)

Like Onesmus’s zen philosophy on enjoying whatever comes to you Simon had a similar view: it’s smart to mind expectations. Many travelers assume there’ll be immediate and constant action. Children can be especially impatient. (We saw some on their phones. Prolly watching Tok Tok). “On Animal Kingdom the action is edited together so that the viewer doesn’t have to wait for it.” But it’s the waiting that’s beautiful, meditative, valuable, spiritual. We used the time to ask questions. To consider answers. And mind you, there wasn’t always action after the waiting. In which case you simply move on and wait some more somewhere else. Enjoying the air. The space. The particular quiet. Nature. Kinda Buddhist.

That said we were lucky. We had SO much action! As it turned out we saw The Big Five over and over again.

Simon took us to visit the Maasai Village. Introduced us to the people and their indigenous culture. Their song. Their dance. Their ‘who-can-jump-the-highest’ contest — the winner often awarded a bride. They welcomed us into their lightless, damp, pungent homes built by the women of the village out of mud and cow dung … a small corner of the abode reserved at night for … the cow.

He drove us to the Great Migration of the wildebeests. He found us leopards, hyenas, crocodiles, groundhogs, topis, dikdiks, birds of every feather. He supplied us with cold beer and “yum-yums”(snacks) at sundown and surprised us with dinner in the middle of the “savannah” under the stars.

And then … another goodbye.

It was magical and life changing — my trip to Africa.* What impressed me beyond was how all the creatures (well the herbivores at least) co-exist so peacefully. Respect one another’s right to be. (We humans can learn from them.)

Soon it will all seem like a dream. I’ll be driving on the 101 and wonder where all the animals are. Out of Africa only touched on what it is to “safari” and a mere 2 weeks only opened a door. I’m not sure how exactly they’ll help me write a better song. Maybe it’s just wishful thinking but somehow I believe … they will.🦁 Because every breath you take … every move you make … expands the mind. The palette. Pushes Boundaries.

Going to a zoo will never be the same.

***

PS: In the lead-up to our trip, Adam and I considered investing in a quality Nikon but reconsidered. We didn’t want to be fumbling to focus. Besides, we could always see amazing photos of wildlife in National Geographic or in online brochures … ones that were far more professional than any we could take. I look back at that conversation and chuckle. I took more pictures (see below) in the last two weeks with my iPhone than I have in the last 2 years. (You might have seen some on Facebook) but I promise I’ve saved the best for last especially one of the short video clips below. I won’t suggest in polite ‘social media speak’ to “check it out.” I’m telling you right now “you HAVE to watch it.” It’s priceless.

Look At this Guy! LOL

Juss Sayin’ hello